2012年8月26日星期日
Louis Dumas Dies At 72 A organization spokeswoman
Louis Dumas Dies At 72
A organization spokeswoman, confirming the death, supplied no particulars on the trigger, but Mr. Dumas had had Parkinson s disease for various years.
Mr. Dumas assumed leadership of Hermes in 1978, at a low point inside the organization s fortunes. Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermes as a harness maker, it had diversified to incorporate clothes, jewelry and accessories by the 1920s. Although its Kelly bags and signature square scarves was style must-haves, the organization was languishing, hobbled by its fusty image.
Having a cost-free, occasionally audacious hand, Mr. Dumas began shaking items up. He hired exciting new designers, extended the corporation s lines, expanded internationally and invested in companies like the glassware maker Saint-Louis, the tableware corporation Puiforcat and also the style house of Jean Paul Gaultier.
Inside a characteristic bit of opportunism, he turned a likelihood encounter with all the English actress Jane Birkin into a single of Hermes s greatest successes. Seated subsequent to Ms. Birkin on a Paris-to-London flight in 1984, he began asking her about her tattered straw handbags and then invited her to operate with Hermes to create a brand new handbag design.
The oversize Birkin bag, with its distinctive locking clasp, soon rivaled the Kelly bag as an object of desire for trendy girls worldwide, who were undeterred by prices that now get started at $7,500 for the humblest version.
In 1978 Hermes had income of about $50 million. By 1990 the figure had risen to $460 million. Final year the organization, with about 300 retailers worldwide, reported revenue of about $2.5 billion.
Jean-Louis Robert Frederic Dumas, who also used the final name Dumas-Hermes, was born on Feb. two, 1938, in Paris. His father, Robert, had married 1 of your four daughters of Emile-Maurice Hermes, a grandson of Thierry, and would turn into chief executive on the corporation in 1951.
Following attending the Institut d Etudes Politiques de Paris, improved identified as Sciences Po, Mr. Dumas traveled to Scandinavia and Czechoslovakia playing drums with a jazz ensemble, then performed his compulsory military service in Algeria.
He entered the buyer-training plan at Bloomingdale s in New York in 1963, a year soon after marrying Rena Gregoriades, an architect who would later style the Hermes shops. She died in 2009.
He is survived by their two youngsters, Sandrine, a film actress, and Pierre-Alexis, the artistic director of Hermes.
Mr. Dumas joined Hermes in 1964 and, just after becoming chairman when his father died in 1978, embarked on an ambitious system of modernization and expansion, extending the company s reaches in to the United states of america and Asia.
Below designers like Eric Bergere and Bernard Sanz, the enterprise started shedding its equestrian image with python motorcycle jackets and ostrich-skin jeans. Mr. Dumas showed excellent flair in hiring new talent.
Veronique Nichanian, previously with the Italian couturier Nino Cerruti, took more than guys s ready-to-wear in 1988, and in 1997 the Belgian iconoclast Martin Margiela was brought in to style ladies s wear. When Mr. Margiela left in 2003, he was succeeded by the even more shocking Mr. Gaultier. The move raised eyebrows throughout the style world but paid off in elevated sales.
Mr. Dumas aggressively opened new Hermes stores abroad, planting the organization flag on Madison Avenue in 2000. Simultaneously, he closed franchises.
In addition to Puiforcat and Saint-Louis, he made alliances with other luxury firms, investing inside the German camera business Leica and getting the name rights for hermes birkin details the London shoemaker John Lobb.
In 1993 he took the organization public. Practically three-quarters of its shares remain in household hands, making Hermes, together with Chanel handbags, 1 of the few fantastic luxury brands which can be nonetheless family-controlled.
Mr. Dumas, who retired in 2006 on account of ill wellness, often carried an old Leica with him, taking birkin replica photos consistently. In 2008, Steidl published a collection of his photographs: Jean-Louis Dumas: Photographer.
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